About the Zone
Malpais is situated on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica on the southern tip of the Nicoya peninsula. Also known as the Hawaii of Latin America, there are several beaches to swim, dive or snorkel though it's main attraction is it's unique conditions for surfing and it's pristine subtropical nature. Horseback riding, sportfishing, canopy tours, scuba, and nature tours make up some of the other popular activities nearby. Malpais is a community unlike any other in Costa Rica with a strong surf culture and a the laid-back atmosphere that maintains the type of earthy tourism that made Costa Rica famous.
Malpais / Santa Teresa
Mal Pais is a tranquil little village with charming hotels loosely spread out along three kilometers of road.
At
the southern end it borders the Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve while to the north
it merges with Santa Teresa where you find shops, tourist facilities and a
vibrant surfer scene.
Although Mal Pais is famed as one of the top surf destinations in Costa Rica, the most popular surf spots are actually on the beaches of Santa Teresa -> Surf in Mal Pais and Santa Teresa
While in recent years Santa Teresa has seen a boom in development, Mal Pais has largely retained its quiet atmosphere with large areas of unspoiled nature.
The coast of Mal Pais is in many places rocky, with some bizarre volcanic formations creating fascinating scenery.
On a beach walk flocks of pelicans will sometimes be your only company. Old growth forest spills down to the shore where rocky outcroppings alternate with sandy stretches and beaches made up entirely of tiny shells.
At the southern end of Mal Pais is the small fishermen port which is also the basis for tours by boat around the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula. The maritime sanctuary of Cabo Blanco serves as a nursery for many aquatic species and from your boat you can watch dolphins, manta rays or whales. If you are into fishing, a good catch is almost guaranteed.
There is no entrance to the Cabo Blanco Park from the Mal Pais side but there are various options to explore the direct neighbourhood of the National Park. You can swoop through the jungle on a canopy tour, amble on horseback through the hills of Cabo Blanco, or hike along the coast: Playa Las Suecas lies on the border to the National Park. You get there by passing by the fishermen port, then follow the dirt road until you see a small path to your right which takes you to the beach. The large rocky pool of Playa Las Suecas is the best spot for snorkeling in Mal Pais.
The village of Mal Pais is essentially devoid of shops and tourist services. Hotels and dining options however range from top notch to rustic though scenic beachfront with the surf bashing over jagged cliffs and views across the beach of Santa Teresa and far beyond to the hills of Guanacaste.
From Mal Pais to the Cabo Blanco National Park
From
the village center of Mal Pais it's a scenic 9 km drive to Cabo Blanco on a
little road over the hills and via the small village of Cabuya.
The first 2 kms of way passes through a river valley with marvelous lush jungle
covering steep slopes on both sides. Then the road goes steeply uphill into the
rolling hills of the Cabo Blanco backlands. There are no houses all the way to
Cabuya (7 km
from Mal Pais) and you have to cross two rivers. In rainy season this is not
always possible.
Before the road drops down to Cabuya you will have a panoramic view of the valley of Cabuya
with the prominent Cemetery
Island.
The Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve opens at 8 a.m. and the earlier you go the more you will see. A hike to the beach of Playa Cabo Blanco and return takes approx 4 hours. Open hours are 8 a.m. - 4 p.m.
Mondays and Tuesdays the Cabo Blanco Reserve is closed
The beaches of Malpais and Santa Teresa belong to the best surf spots in Costa Rica. There are a variety of world-class breaks offering ideal surf conditions throughout the year.
The main surf beach, Playa El Carmen, is on the border between Malpais and Santa Teresa. It has a good set of sand bars that offer some nice lefts and slightly longer rights. As with all beach breaks, the sand bars can change overnight. For latest information ask at the Malpais Surf Camp or at one of the surf shops in Santa Teresa.
The break of Playa Carmen is popular with long-boarders but you can always find a few hot short-boarders pulling tail slides, aerials and 360s.
Rip tides and beach breaks at Playa Carmen are less powerful than in other surf spots of the Costa Rican Pacific, making the surf suitable for beginners to learn on.
The waves tend to get heavier, faster and steeper as you head north towards Playa Santa Teresa. Here it is easier to find your own uncrowded peak but you should be careful for submerged rocks in the sea.
Overview of Surf Spots:
El Carmen: A long right and a shorter left, surfing over sand. It is the best break for beginners learning to surf.
The other surf spots in Malpais are more challenging and not suited for beginners:
Punta Barrigona: A reef break with a long lefthander which wraps round the point turning into a great hot dog wave as it moves through the inside. Needs a lot of swell to work properly.
Los Suecos: Another lefthander reef break with a fast take off followed by a long workable wall. Gets hollow with size and offshore winds but does also need a good swell to work.
Surf in Santa Teresa and further north:
Santa Teresa: Usually bigger and more hollow than Playa Carmen. The surf is better on low tide when waves tend to be faster.
Playa Hermosa: Beach break, lefts and rights. A long sandy beach, rather uncrowded. Another new thrill here is kite surfing.
Manzanillo: The reef is offshore at the north end of the beach. Very fickle wave which needs a lot of swell to work.
Santa
Teresa
When you drive down the road from Cobano to the beach, you will get to
"the crossroads", near Franks
Place and the new mall. Santa Teresa is everything
to the right, and Malpais is everything to the left. The crossroads is at Playa
Carmen. No one knows what to call this area. Is it Malpais, Santa Teresa, or Playa Carmen? Whatever you
call it, the area has become extremely popular in the last few years. Ten years
ago when Montezuma was already a famous destination, Santa Teresa was just
getting electricity. Santa Teresa's world class surfing and gorgeous white sand
beaches have put it on the map for tourists visiting Costa Rica, and hundreds
of foreigners have moved there to live year round. Most of them surf nearly
every day, and Santa Teresa is definitely a surfer's dream town.
Santa Teresa is one very long road that parallels the beach for several miles,
with hotels, restaurants, and various businesses along both sides. Every week
another building appears, and there is a lot of development. So far, nothing
over three stories high, but high-rise condos seem inevitable, since the real
estate prices have made land very expensive. Still the prices rise as there
seems to be no shortage of wealthy foreigners wanting to buy a piece of
paradise, and Santa Teresa is the most expensive and desirable spot in the
southern Nicoya peninsula.
Most of Santa Teresa is white sand beaches, with occasional rocky outcroppings.
There are many public access roads to the beaches, and many natural rocky
outcroppings and occasional rocky bottoms create some interesting and varied
surf conditions. There are two great point breaks in Santa Teresa. On the
mountain side of the road, are many rough steep dirt and gravel roads winding
into the hills to reach many ocean view homes and building sites that dot the
hills.
Santa Teresa is known as the place where the beautiful people of the world come
to surf. Many celebrities and supermodels have been spotted here, sometimes
riding a wave next to you. This is a surfer's paradise with beautiful sunsets
almost every night.
Malpais
Malpais is everything to the south of the crossroads at Frank's Place. Like
Montezuma, Malpais has mostly rocky beaches, with occasional sandy coves. It
has two great surf spots - one at Mar Azul, and one at Sunset Reef. The crowd
here is older and more laid-back than in Santa Teresa, and although it's right
next door, has developed a very different vibe. Unlike Santa Teresa, the real
estate on the Malpais side hasn't been chopped up into thousands of tiny lots
for development. A greater amount of intact jungle, and more water in the hills
keeps the area greener, and because there are less tourists, it's quieter. The
exception is the famous Malpais Surf Camp, which has an open mike night on
Wednesday nights which is attended by half the peninsula. Many famous musicians
have shown up unexpectedly and rocked the crowd, so you never know what you're
going to hear.
Malpais borders Cabo
Blanco National
Park, but it doesn't have an entrance to the
park. The only entrance for tourists is in Cabuya, which is just south of
Montezuma. Malpais is blessed with one of the best restaurants on the
peninsula, called simply "Mary's". This place makes the world's best
fish tacos, and the prices are affordable. I'm salivating just thinking about
them!
Playa
Hermosa
Where does Playa Hermosa start and Santa Teresa end? No one seems to know
exactly, but somewhere north of Santa Teresa, the hubbub of the surf village
ends and a peaceful community begins. Playa Hermosa is the most beautiful beach
in the southern Nicoya
Peninsula, and despite
all the tourists in the area, is still to this day nearly empty. It's a long,
flat sandy beach, with a great surf break (right point break) at the northern
end. There's no development on this beach, except for an occasional house
tucked back in the trees. The hills above have little development as well,
although much of it has been sold in the last year or two, and more development
is expected both above and near the beach.
If you're looking for a beautiful beach without many people, this is the place
for you. It's a 20 minute drive north of the crossroads at Frank's Place. Many
of the foreigners who live in the area take their kids daily to the
international school which is on the beach in Playa Hermosa. This is the best
school in the area.
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Reservations:
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Any other inquires & questions:
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